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Imagine stepping into a realm where traditional flavours intertwine seamlessly with contemporary culinary artistry. A place where the essence of heritage is woven into its dishes with innovative flair. This is the experience that awaits at Restaurant Sühring, nestled in the vibrant heart of Bangkok, where German cuisine is reimagined with a touch of modern elegance.

The brainchild of twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring, this German culinary haven has etched its name in the gastronomic world, not just as a restaurant but as a destination that tells a story with each plate. Recently crowned with prestigious accolades, including two Michelin stars, Restaurant Sühring has become synonymous with exceptional German dining experiences that transcend the ordinary.

In our latest interview, the story unfolds further with insights from Sinbad Leguen, the Restaurant Manager & Julien Iannaccone, the Head Sommelier. Their unique perspectives and mastery of hospitality and wine curation add depth to the Sühring experience. They illuminate the intricate balance of tradition and innovation that defines the restaurant’s identity, showcasing how every element, from ambience to the selection of wines, is crafted to enhance the culinary narrative.

 

First of all, Sühring is a remarkable blend of German cuisine in Bangkok, earning two Michelin stars and encompassing various elements. Could you describe its unique concept and how it came to be?

SL: The story of Sühring unfolds like a fascinating culinary tapestry. About 21 years ago, twin brothers Thomas and Mathias Sühring set out from Berlin on individual paths. Thomas honed his skills in Rome, infusing his dishes with Italian finesse, while Mathias explored the culinary landscapes of the Netherlands. Their separate journeys were rich in diverse European culinary experiences and flavours, even leading them to initially take charge of the popular Mezzaluna at lebua Hotel. After eight years, a friend’s encouragement nudged them to dream bigger, to step out of hotel kitchens and into their own, leading them to unite their talents in Bangkok. Together, they transformed their shared culinary heritage into Sühring, not just a restaurant but a narrative of their journey.

The essence of Sühring lies in its homage to the twins’ familial roots, elevating traditional German recipes passed down from their mother and grandmother into an art form. Here, German culinary traditions meet the vibrancy of Local ingredients, creating a symphony of flavours. Sühring is not just about dining; it’s about experiencing a story, a journey where every plate speaks of heritage and innovation, a celebration of German roots reimagined on a global plate.

 

And how long have you two been part of the Sühring team, and what led to your development within the restaurant? Could you share your background with us?

JI: Initially, our backgrounds might suggest a different path, as we were originally inclined towards science during high school, with aspirations for college. However, our journey led us into the hospitality industry, where we grew and developed our skills over time.

My journey into the world of fine dining at Sühring certainly wasn’t the conventional path. Initially, I spent nearly a decade honing my skills as a cocktail bartender, far removed from the realm of Michelin-starred restaurants. However, fate intervened when I reconnected with Sinbad, a childhood friend from our days in the south of France. When I first set foot in Thailand about a decade ago, Sinbad was already established there. While I travelled across Europe, primarily working in cocktail-related roles and dabbling in wine sales, my attachment to Thailand remained strong.

Upon joining Sühring, my initial role was to oversee the bar. However, this experience led me to delve deeper into the world of wine. Surprisingly, it was my introduction to German wines—a departure from my French wine-centric background—that sparked a newfound passion within me. As I embraced this journey of discovery, I gradually assumed responsibility for the wine program.

 

Amazing – and what about you, Sinbad? What’s your background? Obviously, you’ve lived in Thailand for quite a while. But how did you end up in such an amazing place?

SL: Yeah, my journey in Thailand spans over a decade! Back when we were studying, I tried to steer clear of the F&B industry, influenced by childhood memories of my mother and stepfather toiling away in hotels and restaurants. Weekends and holidays were spent immersed in the hospitality grind, leaving me with a bittersweet impression of the industry. Despite my hesitations to pursue a different path, upon turning 18, I found myself in Thailand seeking adventure. Initially, I dipped my toes into hotel work for the fun of it, but fate had other plans.

A chance encounter with Michael, a hotelier in Phuket, altered my trajectory. What began as a short-term commitment turned into a four-year journey, revealing my innate affinity for hospitality and service. Yearning for new horizons, I made the leap to Bangkok, where an unexpected opportunity at Sühring called. Initially sceptical of German cuisine’s prowess in fine dining, I was swiftly won over by the culinary genius of the Sühring twins. Six years later, I find myself deeply immersed in the dynamic world of German gastronomy.

Navigating the realm of German cuisine in Thailand has been a fascinating journey. While French and Thai cuisines enjoy widespread recognition, German fare often evokes stereotypes of sausages and beer. Yet, Sühring challenges these preconceptions with a rich tapestry of recipes and ingredients waiting to be discovered. Each guest who walks through our doors embarks on a culinary adventure, unsure of what awaits on their plate or in their wine glass. It’s a delight to introduce them to the complexities of German wines, often overlooked in favour of more familiar choices.

At Sühring, every meal is an opportunity to break barriers and broaden horizons, introducing guests to the wonders of German cuisine and wine in an unforgettable dining experience.

 

Shifting from your intriguing journey into hospitality, let’s now explore the restaurant itself. Could you explain the design of the various ‘rooms’, particularly in terms of the menu, wine service, and overall dining experience?

Both: One of the key reasons Sühring consistently attracts both new and returning guests is our unique concept of offering five distinct dining experiences, each corresponding to a different ‘room’ in the restaurant. The ‘Kitchen’, for example, offers a dynamic and interactive experience. It’s lively and bustling, emulating the energy of a busy kitchen with the aromatic scents of cooking and plates being actively prepared and served. This room doesn’t provide traditional table service; instead, guests are immersed in the rush of kitchen activity.

Additionally, we have the ‘Glass House’, which is tailored for a more intimate and romantic setting. It features smaller tables for two and offers a beautiful view of the garden, especially enchanting during early sittings when the sunlight filters through, highlighting the greenery.

For those seeking a more private dining experience, our ‘Living Room’ on the upper floor caters to this need, comfortably accommodating up to eight guests. While our other dining areas include small and large rooms. These spaces are vibrant and can be quite bustling, occasionally even noisy, but that’s part of the charm and appeal we love to offer.

We try to ensure we visit each room nightly, allowing us to personally interact with the guests. Our aim is to offer the engaging, unified experience we’ve always envisioned, enriched by our involvement and each room’s unique atmosphere.

 

Given your restaurant’s varied guest experiences and extensive wine list, how do you curate a selection that caters to newcomers to German wines and those seeking high-quality options?

JI: Our wine list predominantly features German wines, a nod to our chefs’ German heritage and culinary style, with a significant emphasis on Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. To accommodate varied preferences, we’ve included wines from cooler climates, such as Burgundy, Austria and Northern Italy, alongside a selection from Bordeaux.

We also offer two distinct wine pairings: one entirely focused on German wines, each carefully selected to complement our dishes, and an ‘Iconic’ pairing that includes esteemed wines from across Europe, catering to guests with a refined taste in wine. The iconic pairing, funnily enough, is only possible because of our Bermar Preservation system!

While our bottle selection is diverse, it aligns with the chefs’ culinary style, avoiding overly experimental choices to ensure a harmonious & enjoyable dining experience.

 

Considering the diverse range of wines you offer, how important is offering wine by the glass in enabling guests to discover new wines?

Both: Our approach to wine by the glass has significantly evolved, particularly after partnering with Bermar. Originally, guests were, in a sense, ‘guided’ towards German wines, which, while often a delightful discovery for many, didn’t cater to everyone’s preferences. Approximately 20% of our guests expressed interest in trying something different.

The introduction of Bermar changed this. It allowed us to diversify our offerings, adding ‘Iconic’ wines from renowned winemakers to our pairings. Guests now have the flexibility to choose from entirely German, entirely Iconic, or a mix of both wine selections. This shift has transformed the Sühring dining experience, offering greater freedom in wine choices.

Before Bermar, we offered about 12 wines by the glass, with an additional seven in our pairings, totalling 19 bottles open at a time. Now, we’ve expanded to nearly 40 different wines available by the glass, broadening our guests’ opportunities to explore diverse winemakers from Germany and beyond.

 

Given the exceptional nature of your wine offerings, how do you navigate the challenges of setting prices that not only reflect the exclusivity & quality of your selection but also remain approachable & market-savvy?

SL: In pricing our wine list, we strive to offer great value by balancing local market prices in Thailand with the standards of renowned European restaurants. Our aim is to be competitively priced, often cheaper than our counterparts, without sacrificing quality.

We maintain a homely atmosphere in our restaurant and extend this approach to our wine list, ensuring it’s accessible and welcoming. By offering premium selections at reasonable prices, we allow our customers to enjoy high-quality wines comfortably, recognising both the quality and affordability we provide.

 

Okay, switching the focus to your personal preferences, what would be your top choice if a guest were to visit Sühring and you had to recommend one wine that quintessentially captures the Sühring experience?

JI: I’d have to choose the Riesling. Specifically, I was fortunate enough to try the Erdener Prälat Riesling GG Réserve by Dr. Loosen last year. What sets this GG apart – and GGs are quite exclusive – is that it defies the typical expectations of a Riesling. It’s like a remarkable fusion of German and Burgundian wine-making traditions, offering a unique tasting experience.

 

Looking ahead to the coming year, are there any specific dishes or culinary innovations you plan to introduce? What should guests look forward to experiencing when they visit Sühring?

Both: In 2024, Thailand’s culinary scene, especially in higher-end & Michelin-starred restaurants, is undergoing a major shift towards sustainability. As a leading restaurant in Thailand, we’re embracing this change by focusing more on local products and suppliers. This marks a new era in Haute cuisine in Thailand, highlighting the importance of sustainability and local sourcing.

Complementing our local-focused menu, we’re also enhancing our wine selection, mainly with European wines. Our goal is to expand our wine list to 1000 labels, starting with an introduction of six to seven hundred German wines, followed by selections from France and other European regions. This ambitious expansion reflects our commitment to offering a diverse and high-quality dining experience, combining the best of local Thai flavours with world-class wines.

 

 

All photos credited to @restaurant_suhring

 

If you would like to learn more about Sühring, visit their website here or find them on Instagram here.

You can also follow the twin’s journey(s) on Instagram here: Thomas & Mathias!

Should you wish to visit Sühring, they can be found here:

No.10, Yen Akat Soi 3, Chongnonsi, Yannawa 10120, Bangkok