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August 10, 2023

Conversations with Brendan Padfield of The Unruly Pig

 

Imagine journeying into the heart of Suffolk, where the picturesque charm of Bromeswell is the perfect setting for a truly remarkable culinary treasure. A place where the warmth of a traditional British pub intertwines with the rich indulgence of a gourmet restaurant. This is no ordinary gastropub; this is The Unruly Pig.

An extraordinary multi-award-winning establishment, they recently secured second rank in the esteemed Estrella Damm UK Top 50 Gastropubs Awards 2023! With a myriad of notable accolades under their belt, other recent achievements include winning the prestigious “Best Pub” award at the GQ Magazine Food and Drinks Awards 2023, as well as being named in the ‘Top 100’ Restaurants of the UK by The National Restaurant Awards.

Earlier this year, dedicated owner and the visionary behind this success, Brendan Padfield, sat down with us for an exclusive behind-the-scenes interview. His passion and love for what he does was apparent from the moment he started recounting the history of The Unruly Pig. Under his stewardship, the venue has flourished into more than just a gastropub. It’s a delightful blend of tradition and innovation, where exceptional food and meticulously curated wine service come together to create an unforgettable experience. 

As we delve into the rich tapestry of The Unruly Pig, you’ll discover that it’s not just about the delectable dishes or the acclaimed wine service – there are numerous qualities that make it truly extraordinary. An inspiring story of dreams, resilience, and triumph, let’s dive into our latest Conversations With and uncover the magic that happens when you refuse to be anything but unruly.

 

Could you please share your perspective on the journey that led to The Unruly Pig and how it came into existence?

BP: In many ways, my journey into The Unruly Pig embodies a classic tale filled with dreams and resilience. It’s interesting how often I encounter individuals from banking, law, and other professional backgrounds who express envy, saying, ‘You’re so lucky. I’ve always wanted to run a wine bar or restaurant.’ While I do acknowledge my good fortune, many of them lack a true understanding of the immense challenges involved. If they knew what I know now, they might think twice about pursuing such a path. 

The journey started as an obsession, fueling my passion for cooking and wine from a young age. Despite that, I deviated from my true calling due to the influence of my parents and pursued a career in law. However, my dissatisfaction grew, and eventually, at the age of 54, I found myself sitting on a beach during a vacation, pondering my life choices. My amazing wife, playfully fed up with my dream chatter, decided it was high time for me to take action and make those dreams come true – or shut up! So, I left my partnership in the law firm and embarked on a consultancy for a few years, which provided a glimpse of a different, more fulfilling lifestyle. I realised that the legal profession was not where my heart lay. 

With determination, I began my journey of exploration, and serendipity played its part. I stumbled upon an opportunity in a remarkable pub known as The British Larder here in Suffolk. Intrigued by the pub’s potential, I took a leap of faith and made it mine. The real challenge then arose—how to find a chef. That’s where fate stepped in again. Through a series of events, I connected with Dave Wall, an extraordinary chef who happened to be seeking a new opportunity. His decision to join me, leaving behind his esteemed background, was a courageous leap of faith. 

Now, eight years later, we have achieved tremendous success. Dave, alongside head chef Karl Green, has been the driving force behind our kitchen team, creating a stable and dedicated group of individuals who have stayed with us for years, defying industry norms. It speaks volumes about his exceptional leadership skills. 

 

As you look ahead, what drives you, and what do you envision as the next step? Is it pursuing a Michelin star or something else that fuels your ambition?

BP:
Our initial business plan aimed to establish three units within five years, focusing on achieving economies of scale. However, after Brexit, a notable shift occurred in the landscape, primarily entailing challenges concerning staffing. Nonetheless, despite these shifts, your question remains quite fitting.

Our driving force lies in our core values, and one that has remained constant is our commitment to continuous improvement. Dave is the biggest advocate for continuous improvement himself, which is infectious. As for Michelin stars, while it wouldn’t be disingenuous to say we wouldn’t be delighted if one came along, we don’t actively seek it as our primary focus. We understand that achieving a Michelin star comes with its own set of challenges and expectations. 

Our main drive is to be better than we were yesterday, constantly striving for improvement. Although accolades are appreciated, our ultimate goal is not solely financial success but rather the satisfaction of providing exceptional experiences. 

 

Speaking of experience, if someone has never ‘experienced’ The Unruly Pig before, how would you sum up the overall experience, encompassing the food, drinks, and everything else that sets it apart?

BP: When it comes to summing up the overall experience, it can be described as high-end quality cuisine presented in a relaxed and enjoyable setting. One of our key principles is not taking ourselves too seriously. Unlike some posh Michelin-starred establishments where everything feels overwhelming and intense, we believe in creating an environment where guests can enjoy exceptional food without feeling constrained by formalities. 

What sets us apart is the ability to offer great food without being overly pretentious, allowing guests to have a bit of fun and enjoy themselves. We take pride in our menu, which combines seasonal British ingredients with an Italian influence—a unique approach that has resonated well with our patrons. In addition, we’ve maintained a sense of familiarity by including options like steak on our menu. 

 

Given the incredible wine list you offer, extensively available by the glass, it would be remiss not to mention the quality of your wines. It’s clear that you have a deep passion for it. Could you share what drives your passion for wines?

BP: I am passionate about wine, and it has been a significant focus for us here at The Unruly Pig. We take pride in offering an extensive selection of wines, with a remarkable feature being our ongoing availability of around 60 wines by the glass. This level of accessibility and choice is made possible thanks to our Bermar wine & Champagne preservation technology, which enables us to maintain the quality and freshness of our wines, even when serving them by the glass. This sets us apart locally, as very few establishments offer such a diverse range. It’s a crucial differentiator for us, and we believe it matters. 

Just recently, a guest from Norfolk visited, specifically drawn by the reputation of our wine list. He expressed his admiration, realising that we have curated a great selection despite not having an overwhelmingly vast list. Similar to our ethos on familiar foods, we do include some perennial safe choices and also take pride in pushing the envelope by offering unique and lesser-known options. Notably, we intentionally offer these wines at a lower margin to ensure they are accessible to our guests. We aim to provide an exceptional wine experience that is far from ordinary.

 

How do you cultivate a wine experience that stands ‘far from ordinary,’ and how does your staff training play a pivotal role in elevating the overall wine experience for your esteemed guests?

BP: What’s interesting is seeing the transformation of our team members in their passion for wine. Staff who initially had limited wine knowledge have become absolutely passionate about it since working with us. Jason, our bar manager, even mentioned never having tasted red wine before joining us, and now he exudes knowledge and enthusiasm. They have flourished in our learning-oriented culture, which we have fostered, allowing them to explore and share their expertise. This enthusiasm extends to our guests as well. 

Every Thursday, we host ‘Tasting Thursdays‘, featuring a meticulously curated wine flight by Jason. With his passionate descriptions and careful selection of wines, he creates an unrivalled experience that complements our tasting menu, adding an extra dimension of pleasure to the Unruly Pig experience. So, while people do come for our food, they also seek the whole experience, including the carefully crafted wine selection. 

 

Looking ahead, do you see another venue in your future? Or perhaps, considering the talented staff you have, is there a potential for exploring a different concept alongside The Unruly Pig?

BP: Absolutely, we are open to the idea of expanding The Unruly Pig family by venturing into another venue. There is certainly a space waiting to be filled, and it presents an exciting opportunity for growth. 

Our current focus lies on building upon the success of our tasting menu. The tasting menu, not only on Thursdays but in general, has been incredibly well-received. Interestingly, it’s not a common offering in this area, making it somewhat of an exception rather than the norm. We take immense pride in that. Therefore, one of our goals is to renew our emphasis on the tasting menu concept. 

Additionally, we have a significant development that we’re incredibly excited about – the Unruly Guest Nights. These special evenings feature guest chefs from the UK Top 50 and even the Top 10. Our first took place on 17th April, with Freemasons at Wiswell, a remarkable establishment ranking at number three on the [Top 50] list. The next extraordinary instalment, on 27th September, features the esteemed Head Chef Tom de Keyser from Tom Kerridge’s renowned double Michelin-starred Hand & Flowers in Marlow. Recently crowned “Chef of the Year” in the UK Top 50 Gastropub Awards, his culinary prowess promises an unforgettable evening. Teaming up with Unruly Chef Patron Dave Wall and Head Chef Karl Green, these two gastronomic powerhouses have crafted a tantalising 6-course dinner that will take your taste buds on an unparalleled journey, complemented by delightful wine flights. 

Note: The demand for this extraordinary event was overwhelming, with tickets selling out within a mere 9 minutes of going on sale! If you wish to be a part of this exclusive dining experience, join the waiting list (here)!

 

Okay, now shifting to personal tastes: what do you personally enjoy drinking? Could you share some of your favourites you like to indulge in?

BP: At the moment, I quite enjoy indulging in a 2015 Viña Ardanza, beautifully aged in oak. I absolutely love its silky smoothness and the depth of flavours it offers. Another favourite of mine that holds a special place in my heart is Langham, a sparkling wine from Dorset. 

Prior to discovering Langham, I wasn’t particularly drawn to English sparkling wines, but this one changed my perspective entirely. It has a distinct saltiness that I find intriguing, perfectly complementing the taste of the Dorset chalk cliffs. What’s even better is that it comes at a great price point. In fact, I recently secured some of the 2017 vintage for my daughter’s upcoming wedding in August, and we will be opening them to start the celebration. It’s truly a phenomenal choice that I am excited to share with our guests. 

 

If someone asked for your recommendation, what would be your ideal order that perfectly embodies the unique flavours and experience of The Unruly Pig?

BP: We have some truly remarkable dishes on our menu that showcase the culinary excellence at The Unruly Pig. For example, our scallop crudo is an absolute delight, especially when paired with blood orange. The balance of flavours is remarkable, as the blood orange juice doesn’t overpower the delicate scallop. It’s truly astonishing. 

Another standout dish is our Skrei, a beautiful fish that migrates from Norway through the North Sea. This firm and exquisite cod is considered the best in the world. 

Of course, no visit to The Unruly Pig would be complete without trying our custard tart. It’s a slice of comfort food heaven, featuring the smoothest and silkiest custard, accompanied by thin
slices of rhubarb and a rhubarb sorbet with a hint of lemongrass. The combination and balance of flavours are simply gorgeous.

 

And finally, what are some of your guilty ‘food’ pleasures when you’re at home? It could be a particular dish or something else entirely. We’ve heard some wild answers before, so feel free to share whatever comes to mind!

BP: I have a few guilty pleasures that come to mind. One of them is enjoying beans on toast but with a twist. I like to spread a layer of Marmite on the toast before adding the beans, and then I top it off with grated Parmesan cheese. It creates a unique and satisfying combination.

Another guilty pleasure of mine is indulging in a chip butty. I prefer to have both mayo and tomato sauce on it, which results in a sort of Marie Rose sauce. But it has to be on cheap, squishy plastic bread for that authentic experience. 

Lastly, when I’m looking for a quick and delicious supper, I have my go-to 10-minute recipe. I start by mashing up some anchovies, mixing them with olive oil and garlic. I mix spaghetti into the anchovy blend in a pan and then generously sprinkle parsley and pangritata, which are fried breadcrumbs, on top for added crunch. It hits the spot every time.

 

Last two images credited to @unrulypig

 

If you would like to learn more about The Unruly Pig, you can visit their website here or find them on Instagram here.

You may also wish to visit the venue, which can be found here: 

Orford Road, Bromeswell, Nr Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 2PU

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